Morgan M

Emma Shaw - Thursday 2nd 2010f September 2010


Morgan M is one of those neighbourhood gems that you would love to boast about, but are worried that being discovered would ruin its local charm. Located in the Highbury corner end of Islington means that the surrounding area is slightly more relaxed and serene - totally in keeping with the character of the restaurant.

Picture an intimate and tranquil space with warm coloured walls, crisp oak floors, calming green arm chairs and banquets and large frosted glass windows, giving the space an airy and light welcoming feel.

Chef and patron Morgan Meunier is the mastermind behind the fabulous food - and having been voted the third best chef in London (Hardens Guide 2007), we knew we were in for a treat. We decided to have the real Morgan M experience and went for the renowned summer six-course tasting menu. Chilled gazpacho came first, and this arrived with a refreshing tomato and olive oil sorbet - the temperatures, flavours and textures complementing each other perfectly. Next, I opted for the terrine of foie gras, accompanied with roasted pine nuts, pain d'epice and a wonderful cherry compote and coulis. My partner opted for the tatar of tuna which came with tomato tuile, avocado, and a red pepper sorbet. We both savoured every mouthful. Next up we were both served a flavoursome seared fillet of red mullet, lifted by a tomato and fennel puree and a saffron and lemon broth. With just the right amount of time between meals, we were give given a mouth-watering quail-based dish comprising succulent grilled breast of quail, braised leg of quail and a light couscous with lemon confit and green olives. This was yet another course which was divine and cooked to perfection and in keeping with the rest of the dishes, flavours were delicate and it was clear that the ingredients were fresh and of the highest quality.

Meunier really does know what he is doing with his combinations of textures and tastes - the dishes hit the spot every time with some surprise ingredients that really work. Desserts were no exception, with a light vanilla rice pudding served with orange tuile. Finally, my choice of caramelised apricot, clafoutis biscuit, apricot and vanilla coulis and lemon thyme ice-cream was a fantastic example of this masterful cooking. Coffee and utterly mooreish petit fours were a welcome finishing touch.

Presentation throughout was faultless and highly artistic - we almost did not want to ruin the works of art by eating them, but very quickly caved in with the enticing wafting aromas making it simply impossible to wait too long. Similarly, right from the start the service was impeccable and intimate - we really felt like we were the only diners there, even though the place was full. Despite the large number of courses, we never felt rushed and the waiters disappeared when they needed to and reappeared as just the right moments.

The winter six-course tasting menu will soon be available, and naturally there is also an a la carte option: this will give me a several excuses to return to sample the other modern French dishes lovingly created by Morgan Meunier and enjoyed by loyal diners.




Morgan M
489 Liverpool Road
Islington
London
N7 8NS
Tel: 020 7609 3560
Web: www.morganm.com